Despite waxing lyrical recently about my choice of 20mm scale for a ‘cold war gone hot’ project I got distracted by some shiny things. These things cooincided with the annual black friday sales, the result of which being I now have two parallel projects.
So, I’ve ended up with quite a collection of 15mm (1/100) scale miniatures, the majority of which are from Battlefront’s Team Yankee range. I’ve picked up some British, US and Soviet tanks and vehicles and added to this some infantry (which I am multi-basing for use with Seven Days to the River Rhine by Great Escape Games).
I’ve been concentrating on British armour and Soviet Infantry so far. The British armour has been a joy to build and paint. I have been ploughing through the relatively new British Starter Force box set which is based around a core of Challenger 1 and Chieftain tanks.
Again concentrating on a mid-80s European theatre I have gone with the standard BAOR (British Army of the Rhine) camo scheme using Army Painter Army Green as the basecoat with an airbrush application of Vallejo Air black. Details are then picked out with a watered down all over wash of Army Painter Dark Tone wash. I then highlight/drybrush up with a Citadel Death Guard green and a final overall light drybrush of Army Painter Brainmatter Biege.
Tracks are basecoated with a flat earth brown, Strong Tone wash and metallic drybrush.
I have only finished one Chieftain to completion so far (as a test model for the overall scheme); however as I am batch painting I have a lot (including more Chieftains, Challengers, armoured cars and other AFVs all in various stages of completion).
The Soviet Infantry is from Plastic Soldier Company. There are an amazing 141 figures in this set.
I followed a fairly basic scheme for the uniforms. Following an undercoat these were base coated with Vallejo Air Khaki followed by a Strong Tone wash. Webbing was picked out with Death Guard Green, helmets with Russian Green from Coat d’Arms and shoulder boards (very carefully) in red.
I’ve rarely painted 15mm scale miniatures, and I really had to adjust my mindset. Rather than trying to paints loads of mini-masterpieces, at this scale it is really more about the overall effect and how things look at a distance on the gaming table. At all scales I think consistent basing can hide a multitute of painting sins, and this was my goal here.
My 20mm stuff I am continuing with but am going to hold over for more skirmish level gaming. I recently picked up some 1/76 scale Airfix kits that I am going to start work on soon.
Let’s hope I can actually get some of these to the table sometime in 2021.
More recently I’ve also been painting up some of the redesigned ‘new paradigm’ Daleks. This radical new design of Dalek is now believe it or not ten years old, and while the TV series went back to the classic design quite quickly I managed to buy up quite a lot of the cheap plastic models that were given away on the front of magazines at the time. Just coincidentally these are also the perfect scale for 28mm gaming.
The one thing I have been really missing is a proper old school classic design of Dalek for the tabletop. Here’s where the wonderful world of 3D printing comes to the rescue. There are loads of designs for Daleks uploaded to Thingiverse of varying quality and accuracy, but I eventually settled on trying the files by Stryker123.
These look to be designed to be printed at a much larger scale than the 28mm tabletop standard. The design files are split into components, but there is also a completed (assembled) version in the files. By chance this defaults to a near perfect size for the tabletop (although in the end after some trial and error in printing I scaled them by 105%).
Printed on my resin printer (an AnyCubic Photon) these have come out well, albeit with some problems printing the sucker arms and gun sticks (that are just that bit too fine for the resolution I am printing at).
In the end following further test prints I ended up printing the sucker arms and guns seperately and sticking them on to the ‘completed’ models on which the majority of these features had not come out. In fact the gun stick was so fine I just ended up using trimmed bits of scaffold to represent them in the end.
Stryker123 has provided incredicbly accurate Dalek designs covering all the 1960s variants. While to the non-geek eye many of these look very similar I was delighted to see the effort that had been put in here.
I have concentrated mainly on the models from the very first Dalek story and also from the classic ‘Evil of the Daleks’. My painting has also followed these stories. However for the very first Daleks I went with the colour scheme that this model was given when appearing in more recent ‘Nu-Who’ story a few years back.
The models were given a black undercoat and this was followed by a complete coverage of silver. Both colours were car paints from spray cans obtained from the local Poundland.
I painted the ‘grills’ (between body and dome) in this case using Black Templar contrast paint from Citadel. This provided a nice deep shading will keeping the grills hightlighted in silver. Nodules and for the banding on the original Daleks without shoulder slats was acheived using a light blue. The nodules or domes on Dalek models are very definitely not one of my favourite things to paint!
A couple of the ‘Evil’ versions were painted with black domes to indicate that they were part of the Emperor Dalek’s guard. In addition to the standard silver models I undercoated a handful of others using Citadel Wraith Bone with the intention of painting these in red and gold liveries.
Not canon in terms of Dalek colouring, but a nice contrast to the silver hordes.
Finally I left one of the black undecoated models as it was in order to paint up a Dalek Supreme to command my new forces. These are all still work in progress.
I’m currently working on some profiles for the Daleks for 7TV and will cover them in a future article.
I recently got a rather large box in the post all the way from France. Inside, my Reichbusters Kickstarter pledge rewards. I am a bit of a sucker for Weird War settings and games and from what I saw when the campaign was running, the game looked right up my street too.
However it was really the miniatures I was after. I fully intend to play the game, but like many things in my collection the thought ‘I could always use this for 7TV‘ is never far from my mind.
Now, there are a LOT of figures here. The scale is somewhat larger than standard 28mm and probably sits somewhere between 35 and 40mm. Fine on there own in any game, but might look a little odd alongside other parts of my collection. Where this isn’t really a problem is with the ones that immediately caught my attention when opening the boxes for the first time. The ‘Vrill Panzers’ – basically big stompy (piloted) robots.
There are two of these in the set of boxes I received, they are (like all the miniatures) one piece casts in a very hard PVC style material. Absolutely no sign of warping or bending weapon syndrome from what I have seen so far. The Vrill Panzers are chunky, really nicely detailed and heavy; however they are by no means the biggest models in the set (more on that later).
So in terms of getting the Vrill Panzers painted up I thought I would go for a ‘late war’ dunkelgelb, by really weather it up. With there being two in the set I could afford to experiment a bit on this first one.
First step was a wash in warm soapy water. This is something I never used to do on any models, but now religiously do whether I am painting PVC, hard plastic, resin or metal.
Once dry I applied decals. There were none provided with the game, but I have a huge stash of World War II and Dust Tactics decal sheets that I have amassed over time, so I had plenty of choice. My usual approach, which I used here, is to paint the area I am going to apply the waterslide decal to with gloss varnish first. Once dry I applied the decal itself and again let it dry before another coat of gloss. I placed a few markings strategically then moved on to the weathering.
The first stage was to stipple using an old bit of sponge both dark brown and then silver across the most worn areas of the model. Next it was time to dirty it all up. My plan here was to paint on Army Painter Quickshade Dark Tone. I have had some success in the past with a fairly light coat of this brushed on to models. It leaves them very shiny, but protected and I always apply matt varnish as the final step in these cases.
The problem I hit here was my can of Quickshade was quite old and hadn’t been sealed properly the last time I used it. As such I had to remove a thick skin from the surface of the shade within the tin before application to the model. This is where the alarm bells should have run, however I proceeded to ‘slap in on’. It was at this stage I noticed how thick and gloopy it was. I stirred it up as usual but once applied it became obvius that something was wrong. Rather than apply the subtle shading I was after, and rather than immediately receeding into the contours and crevises of the model it just sat there like some vile dark slime.
Through excessive mopping up with a brush I was able to dave things to some degree, but the weathering has ended up being much, much heavier than I intended. Once the matt varnish (Testors Dullcote) was applied things looked a lot better, although I had made some of the decals rather difficult to make out.
The final weathering stage was to add some rust (it seemed apt with how heavy beat up the mech now looked). I drybrushed on some Citadel Dry Ryza Rust and in the end I think this turned out OK.
The base was in part basecoated in silver and then painted over with Citadel Basilicanum Grey (a contrast paint, this is my new favourite way of painting a gun metal effect). All the bases in the game have a metal gantry / walkway look to them, so this fitted quite well especially when finished up with some more drybrushed rust. The areas that looked more stone like were done in greys.
All in all I think I managed to rescue it. Apart from the Quickshade incident it was an enjoyable model to paint. As I have another one in reserve I might go with a different, cleaner, more fresh of the production line look.
In addition to the Vrill Panzer I also painted a couple of the ‘troop’ models from the game to test out some colours and techniques.
I’ve also started on the monstrous Projekt X mech. Remember when I said the Vrill Panzers weren’t the biggest model, well this fella is truly gigantic (and actually quite difficult to lift). He is still work in progress and I’ll cover this in another article.
Like most folk in these interesting times I find myself with a lot more hobby time than usual at the moment. Despite having a number of different projects on the go at the moment (including a recent delivery of my Reichbusters Kickstarter rewards) as per usual nothing ever stops me getting distracted.
I’ve always been a big Doctor Who fan, and so when Warlord Games released their range a few years ago I dove in and bought the Exterminate boxed game. I played the game a few times, but it didn’t really do anything much for me (and I defaulted back to my standard approach of ‘oh well, at least I can use the figures for 7TV’).
And therein came the problem. As you may be aware the Warlord Into the Time Vortex range was scaled at about 38mm and so most of the figures are much bigger than standard wargaming minis and so don’t really ‘play well with others’. The exception to this in my opinion are the plastic multi-part Daleks that came in the core game (and also released seperately with Davros).
But to base or not to base the muderous pepper pots? Logic states that to minimise any scale discrepancies when mixing these with others, then leaving the Daleks unbased would be the way to go. However logic is for Cybermen! Also the only real option being to place them on 28 or 30mm bases, and that just looked, well, odd.
Any how having filed my painted (unbased) Daleks away in their very own Genesis Ark (i.e. a box in the cellar) I forgot about them for a few years. That is until I was tidying up the other day and came across a set of basecoated but otherwise unpainted squad of Daleks.
Having previously almost exlusively painted these guys so far in a bronze scheme as per the new series, I opted to go with a more classic series feel for these guys. One of the more obscure Daleks is the so called ‘red top’. Real creator of the Daleks, Terry Nation (not Davros), had a small collection of full sized props and when interviewed for Doctor Who’s 10th anniversary back in 1973 one of these appeared in the photoshoot.
A combination of props from the TV series and the sixties films, ‘red top’ had well, a red top (while the rest of the body was the standard silver and blue). There’s something quite retro about this look that puts me in mind of the crazy sorts of random livery that the Daleks often had in comic strips.
I used a combination of standard and contrast paints for these guys. I also remembered why I hadn’t painted any in a few years…. Those blasted globes on the bodies – I very nearly gave up (due to a combination of boredom and cramp).
In addition to the standard plastic ‘drones’, I also had a couple of half finished metal models, the Supreme Dalek and the Special Weapons Dalek. Not too happy with the former, but think the latter came out OK.
So what’s all this waffle about basing then? Well since then Primaris Space Marines have happened.
Well they introduced the 32mm circular base.
Just the perfect size for a Mark III Travel Machine!
First up we have the hero himself, that chap who will save every one of us. The inspiration for this model is very clearly the original (and possibly the best) Flash of them all, Larry ‘Buster’ Crabbe. This is a lovely sculpt that perfectly captures that old school retro science fiction look.
Also a pleasure to paint, I went for a fairly traditional colour scheme here based on the original comic strips. Citadel contrast was used for the majority of this model.
Following on from our lead, we have an ally and co-star in the form of the ‘Renegade Royal’. This is one of two variations of this sculpt I received and has a passing resemblance to a certain James Bond from the eighties. Again all painted in contrast, not so keen on the green here, maybe a bit too rich, but all the same a suitable shade for a prince of Arboria.
To go along with the Prince I tried out another colour scheme on one of the ‘Otherworldy Guards’, this time as a tree man to accompany Barin.
Finally for this update we have a slight diversion to the excellent Princes of the Universe range by Cold War Miniatures. I’ve previously written about this excellent set of figures, and a few months ago picked up some of their then new ‘space Mongols’ range. So yes, it is yet another Ming, but a bit more kitted out for action and leading the Legions of Mongo on the frontlines.
This resin miniature is probably slightly bigger in scale than the Crooked Dice range, but it is close enough for me.
Just as an addendum, I also completed one of the ‘macguffin’ tokens/models from the 7TV set.
Recently I’ve been catching up with some ‘Pulp’ painting, finishing off a group of figures I didn’t get round to for the 7TV game at Hammerhead and also completing a number of half painted minis that have been on the table (in some cases for years).
First up are my ‘Sky Pirates’. A mix of figures I have been planning for us with some of the lovely looking 3D printed airships I’ve been working on recently. The red headed heroine is an out of production mini from Statuesque Miniatures from their Pulp Alley line. Talking of Pulp Alley, her team mates are from some Pulp Figures packs I picked up over Christmas.
Next up we have a really characterful figure from Artizan Designs. This chap has been sat undercoated on my workbench for quite a few years now, so it was great to be able to finally get round to finishing him. Kind of has the look of either a dependable sidekick, a guide or perhaps even an evil henchman?
Shifting forward about a decade to more 1940s style aesthetic we have a Warlord Games ‘female agent’ style figure who wouldn’t look out of place next to a certain WW2 era star spangled Captain.
Next we have a dastardly German office from the Thrilling Tales range of figures from Artizan Designs.
Finally here is a set of security guards from Crooked Dice for 7TV Pulp.
Across all of these I’ve used a mix of normal acrylic paints from the likes of Vallejo, Army Painter, Citadel, Coat d’Arms, Reaper and Andrea Colour, as well as contrast paints from Games Workshop.
I’m beginning to learn which contrast paints suit my painting style the best, with black, white and red being particular favourites. I’m sure this is going to prove handy as I have started on the Pulp Sci Fi rewards from the latest Crooked Dice 7TV Kickstarter.
Just prior to Christmas I picked up a copy of the newly released Cthulhu Death May Die board game by CMON. This was another case of miniatures, rather than game driving my purchase decision. In fact it was yet another case of thinking ‘oh I could use them in 7TV’, 7TV Pulp to be precise.
I’ve played quite a few Cthulhu themed games and continue to quite regularly with my weekly board gaming chums. Favourites include, Mansions of Madness and the epic Cthulhu Wars. The general consensus in our circle when Death May Die was launched originally on Kickstarter some time ago, was that although it looked nice and had the usual high quality components and miniatures that CMON regularly knock out, the theme and general approach seemed a bit too ‘shooty’ and not ‘investigator focussed’ enough for the setting.
Fast forward and I am browsing the posts on the 7TV Productions Facebook page and see a size comparison of 28mm scale Crooked Dice minis and the one-piece pre-assembled plastics from Death May Die. The size is almost spot on, maybe a touch larger than 28mm, but certainly not too noticeable. The sculpts themselves are lovely, with a nice mix of character models, minions and monsters. Way back in the day I went in heavily on the original Zombicide game and expansions. I have to say in comparison to this, the quality of the minis that CMON are producing for their board games has improved leaps and bounds. Clean and crisp, with none of the old problems of thin bendy bits or soft detail. There is the usual issue when using board game miniatures with skirmish wargames that your troops or minions tend to be all of a single or limited number of poses, but I can live with that.
With 7TV Pulp having a very much Cthulhu inspired theme as one of its genres I took the opportunity not only to pick up the core box of Death May Die, but also a few of the expansions. There are some really nice big monster models here that I hope to be able to use with the upcoming release of the 7TV Menagerie of Terror card set.
The miniatures themselves are all one piece or pre-assembled in a quite hard PVC plastic which has made painting relatively easy. Using mostly contrast paints over primarily a white undercoat I have started so far on the minions and monsters with a view to ploughing through these and spending more time on the character models later.
While I will probably give the actual game a try at some point,in the meantime I am cracking on with the painting, including the big fella himself…..
The 3D printing aspect of my hobby is both a source of great joy and great frustration. I started off last year with no experience at all and ended the year with two 3D printers, an even bigger pile of unpainted models and a new level of zen-like patience I would never have though possible.
For all the great stuff that I’ve been able to do there are times when I just want to throw the damn things out of the window. I made the decision last summer to invest in a resin printer (Anycubic Photon S). This has been utterly fantastic (so far) – the quality that I have been able to get at home printing out miniatures is in my opinion a game changer for the industry moving forward.
As an aside it has been interesting to note how the industry is starting to adapt to this new technology. Patreon seems to be a very popular route for digital sculptors for tabletop games. I have gone down the rabbit hole a bit with this recently and backed some amazing creators, many of which are pumping out quality designs for print at a heck of a rate. In fact some of the ‘traditional’ miniatures companies are also seeing the value in this – I’ve recently subscribed to both Titan Forge Miniatures and Bombshell Miniatures patreon campaigns.
So the older (larger) FDM printer (Creality CR-10S) has now been put purely on scenery and vehicle printing duty and is still doing a good job. However (and back on the subject of frustration) I have had a lot of breakdowns recently, much of which I am putting down to the hammer I have been putting it through. I have noticed an unspoken law that seems to dictate that only one of my printers can be working at any one time!
Moaning aside I have recently been working on some airship models I have printed. These are nominally for use in games of 7TV Pulp (I fancy doing an inter-war sky pirates type thing), but these would also be useful for steampunk or even fantasy type games. In fact the two models I have picked up were really designed for the latter (think Age of Sigmar’s ‘air dwarves’ or Dungeons and Dragons Eberron setting).
The first vessel was obtained from Dark Realms via their Patreon campaign and was made available to patrons during October last year. This was printed almost exclusively on the FDM printer with some of the smaller parts being done in resin.
Blimp rear – showing I had to switch filament part way through the print.
The print time on this was long, probably 80 plus hours in total. The model went together OK once printed. I was a bit over aggressive on some of my support settings and there was a bit of warping on some bottom layers leading to some slight deformities in detail (note the top of the doors). That said, as a gaming model I am pretty pleased with how this came out.
All the main components
The deck was printed in two parts
The connector to the blimp was resin printed.
The two halves of the blimp connected.
Another view of the connector piece in resin.
The two main sub-assemblies prior to painting.
I didn’t spend too much time cleaning the model up (I’d probably invest some more time on sanding and smoothing out the layer lines if I did this again). However I did use a heat gun to remove some of the wispier bits of plastic filament that are often left over after a print.
The blimp and ship parts of the model were assembled seperately and undercoated in black primer.
For the blimp a simple block colour paint job was applied. The body of the ship was painted primarily with diffferent brown shades from the Citadel contrast range. This worked really well on the wood grain panels that make up most of this part of the model.
Basic block colours applied.
Ready for Quickshade.
It was a case of painting on some Army Painter Quickshade Dark Tone. I went very heavy with this, partly to give it a really dirty ‘steampunk’ luck and partly to smooth out some of the surfaces.
Once dry (after 24 hours) this was tidied up, specifically successivly lighter shades of grey were applied to the canvas parts of the blimp and the metal work was rehighlighted and some rust effects applied.
I applied a mix of decals (I have gone for an Imperial German / Great War style), and then painted up the port holes using a white base over which I applied a blue contrast paint.
The base was supplied as a file with the rest of the model, so this was printed and then painted and adorned in such a way as to try and hide it as much as possible to give the illusion of flight.
Blimp, ship body and base were all then put together. Despite a desire to try and magnetise the blimp connector to the deck this wasn’t possible due to the weight of the components. Therefore a bit of drilling and pinning was done to hold the whole thing in place.
I’m really pleased with the finished result, despite the fact that it has been pointed out to me that the design shares some similarities with the ‘Pinky Ponk’ of In the Night Garden fame.
I mentioned at the begining of this article that I was working on a second airship model. This one is from Titan Forge Miniatures and I will cover this in a separate blog.
I’ve also been alerted to the fact that there is a Kickstarter launching soon for 3D print designs for fantasy airships called Skies of Sordane and this is certainly something I may just get involved in….
As is often the case this little hobby activity was in no way planned. Having bought a few cheap Heroclix figures from eBay in order to try out a new set of rules, I found the following in the booster packs I was opening….
Now I am not a massive Marvel or superhero comics chap, but I do know that this is Magneto, nemesis of the X-Men. However my immediate thought was, with a bit of work that could easily be Cobra Commander seated in his throne room.
So, first up basing. This looked to be a flying model so rather than being directly attached to the usual Heroclix chunky base, all I had to remove and replace was the clear plastic around the bottom of the model.
In my bits box I knew I had a hooded Cobra Commander head (sourced from a limited run of private commission GI Joe miniatures). So one quick snip and a touch of superglue later and the king snake himself was pretty much done (at least in terms of modelling).
Now the only problem I had with making this a convincing conversation was the facts that the original bare headed figure has his hand placed on a helmet. As it happens the choice of going with the ‘hooded’ version of Cobra Commander proved fortuitous. With a bit of filler I could convert the helmet in hand into his alternate head wear. In fact even better I could go with the ‘Action Force’ version of the Commander and model the helmet as his previous ‘Baron Ironblood’ persona.
(For those readers not familiar with the British Action Force mythology, Cobra was born out of the ashes of the Red Shadows organisation, with Cobra Commander previously being the head of that organisation, the fearsome Baron Ironblood. You can read more about my Action Force project and Baron Ironblood in my past blog posts.)
Next step, painting. I gave the pre-painted figure a covering with a white primer applied with the airbrush. Then it was down to a combination of Citadel Contrast and ‘traditional paints’ to finish things off. All in all a quick but effective conversion, which will probably see some action on the tabletop in games of 7TV at some point in the future.
What this has reminded me is that while some of the pre-paints on Heroclix models can be a bit ropey, there are often some good sculpts hiding underneath. Heroclix can be incredibly cheap to pick up and the vast array of characters means that these can be a really good source for conversions (whether you choose to re-paint them or not).
Thing is this all started off with a desire to do some super hero hobby and gaming. I still plan on pursuing this (especially in light of the theme of this years Wargames Illustrated 7TV Day). Well these turned up recently (I ordered them, but has kind of forgotten about them)….new unpainted X-Men Heroclix, including of course a certain Magneto….
With the recent completion of the 7TV Pulp Sci Fi miniatures Kickstarter I have a load more reinforcements coming over the next few months. (For the record the 1980 version of Flash Gordon is my all time favourite and probably most watched film of all time).
In the meantime I’ve been thinking about how to expand the legions of Mongo to include some themed vehicles to my selection of troops and personalities.
A while ago I picked up a Heroclix model of ‘Brainiacs Skullship’. You can see the original below. This was ostensibly in order to model a Roboskull for my Action Force project, but in the end I never quite got round to that. However as a model it has a certain ‘pulp appeal’ and so I set about repainting this in some suitably Ming-like colours.
The model was first removed from it’s Heroclix base using a hobby saw (and a bit of blunt force).
A basecoat of red primer was applied with the airbrush and a couple of progressively lighter reds (all Vallejo Game Air) were applied as highlights. The clear plastic green panels were masked so that they could be left in place.
Detail was picked out in gold and black lining was done with Tamiya panel line wash.
All I am quite pleased with the result. I think it has a aesthetic that matches the style of the Flash Gordon movie well. I have another one sat on my shelf that I think I am going to do something similar with, but maybe in the black and gold of Klytus’s Imperial Secret Police.